Maritime Tales: Shipyards and Shipwrecks – Part 1 of 2

Text by Bruce Thurlow

Images from Scarborough Historical Society, Rodney Laughton and Don Googins

Pine Point Boatyard, Scarborough, 1928.

Pine Point Boatyard, Scarborough, 1928

Scarborough has always been a place where going to sea and fishing are a part of life. At one time ships, boats, and smaller watercraft were built in Scarborough, but the town does not share the same long shipbuilding history of many other Maine coastal and river towns. There was a brief period when Dunstan Landing was an important port and shipyard.

Shipbuilding: Sailing Ships

Shipbuilding operations at Dunstan Landing spanned the period from just after the Revolutionary War to the mid-1800s. Before the war, raw materials for building ships were sent to England. The area was heavily forested, much of it with tall pines ideally suited for masts and straight boards for the ships of the King’s Royal Navy. Most of the pines measured about a yard across and one hundred feet high and grew so close to each other there was no room for limbs to sprout for the first eighty feet. After the Revolutionary War, local craftsmen began building their own ships. Shipbuilding was often a side profession for those who knew carpentry. The abundance of trees, particularly the huge pines, many sawmills, a protected port and local sea captains needing ships for fishing and trade presented a perfect opportunity for building ships.

Before roads, railroad bridges and tide gates, ocean water overflowed the marsh at high tide. Boats were able to sail up the Scarborough River and over the marsh to Dunstan Landing. It was difficult to navigate larger ships, especially those carrying long masts, through the “meanderings” of the waterway, so a straight ditch was hand-dug to connect the landing to the river. In time, the rush of flowing water finished cutting a channel wide enough and deep enough to accommodate larger ships. This channel, or canal, became known as the New River. The Dunstan shipyard was at the end of the man-made canal.

Dunstan was a busy trading port as well as a shipbuilding center. Lumber and fish were bought and sold; fishing fleets sailed to the Grand Banks fishing grounds; and ships sailed to England, the West Indies, and other trading ports. After the British burned and destroyed Portland’s merchant fleet in 1775, trade from that port was diverted to Dunstan Landing. Since it was three miles up the river from the coastline, Dunstan Landing was a fairly inconspicuous place and less exposed to attack by the British. By the 1790s, Portland had rebuilt its port and surpassed Dunstan as a trading center.

'Delia Chapin' construction, Dunstan Landing, Scarborough, 1847

‘Delia Chapin’ construction, Dunstan Landing, Scarborough, 1847

Names of most of the ships built at the Dunstan shipyard have been lost. It is known that local mariners Abraham Perkins and Ira Milliken had two boats built at the landing, one of them a brig named Angelina. Other ships were the Velzora; a three-masted bark named Horace that was wrecked on Kennebunk Beach in 1838; and the Watchman, which sank fifty miles offshore with a cargo of coal. Some ships were built elsewhere but launched at Dunstan Landing. Such was the Sarah, built by Major John Waterhouse near Scottow Hill and hauled about two miles to the landing by teams of oxen. The bark Delia Chapin, also built by Major Waterhouse, was the last ship built in the shipyard. It was launched as a hull in 1847 and was to be floated to Portland for final fitting out, but the ship was beached in a gale after it left the Scarborough River. It was later refloated and completed for service.

In a newspaper account of his 80th birthday, Scarborough resident Aaron A. Merrill, a Civil War veteran, recalled the days when Scarborough was a well-known shipbuilding center. His remembered that one shipyard had been at Dunstan Landing and other yards were at Black Point on the Nonesuch River and the Libby River.(1)

By the 1840s, a railroad drawbridge across the Scarborough River narrowed clearance for larger ships; and by 1873, water between Dunstan Landing and the river was diverted under the new Pine Point Bridge, totally cutting off access to all boats. The shipyard and the seaport ceased to exist.

Boat Building: Lobster Boats and Skiffs

Dory with Twin Girls, Scarborough, ca. 1905

Dory with Twin Girls, Scarborough, ca. 1905

Later, in the years between 1930 and 1960, lobster boats and skiffs were built at Pine Point. Ward Bickford built several of these boats. Three of Bickford’s boats were built in a section of a building owned by Harold Burnham.(2) Burnham had bought the old Leavitt Brothers Clam Plant, and he and family members occupied the front part that had been a barbershop. Bickford worked in the larger section that was like a one-story barn.

Bickford built five more lobster boats between 1937 and 1945. The first was built in the Pine Point Boathouse, but the building wasn’t tall enough for the cabin and it had to be put on outdoors.(3) Bickford’s next three boats were constructed in a large, garage-like structure behind the Pillsbury Inn, which was next door to his house. He built his last powerboat in 1959 for Cecil Pinkham. This boat was built on the vacant lot next to Cecil’s house; it was larger, about 34 feet, and had a diesel engine.

These particular powerboats had frames of oak and hulls made from pine strips. About 26-feet-long, these boats were built to turn quickly, were very seaworthy, and managed rough seas very well. The engine was usually a gasoline car engine. A belt ran from the engine pulley to a hauling winch; and as long as the engine was running, the winch turned and lobster traps could be hauled aboard. Except for small skiffs (punts), no other boat building has occurred in Scarborough since 1959.

Continued on Page 2

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Roads: From Footpaths to Super Highway

Text by Bruce Thurlow

Images from Scarborough Historical Society and Charlene Fenlason

Pine Point Road, ca. 1907

Pine Point Road, ca. 1907

The first “roads” were not really roads but Indian footpaths through the woods. Generally, the trails followed firm ground rather than a direct course, avoiding swamps and hills whenever possible. Certain signs cut on trees marked paths from one home to another; and if marks were cut just right, the traveler could find his way after dark. Later, branches and trees were cleared from the paths to allow passage for horses. As the settlements grew, attention was given to roads and ferries. In 1658, the Massachusetts court passed an ordinance requiring ferries for transport across rivers. A ferry was established on the Spurwink River, and Ambrose Boaden was the first ferryman.(1) Around 1673 the town was ordered to have good and sufficient means to transport horses. Another ferry was established at a place still called Ferry Beach, located near Black Rocks off the Black Point Road. It was part of the first King’s Highway.

Road leading to Scarboro Beach, ca. 1890

Road leading to Scarboro Beach, ca. 1890

The first King’s Highway had two rows of cartwheel ruts with a footpath in the middle. It wasn’t smooth and straight, but it was much wider than footpaths and much easier to follow. Since there were no bridges, brooks and rivers were crossed at wading places or by ferry. By 1653, the King’s Highway reached from Portland to Kittery and followed Scarborough’s coastline. At Scarborough, the highway began at the Spurwink River where a traveler would take the ferry across the river, and then at Higgins Beach horses could run along the hard sand. The highway continued to the ferry at Ferry Beach; and from the ferry landing at Pine Point, the traveler would proceed on the beach to Old Orchard. For more than one hundred years, the King’s Highway was the only land route between the Province of Maine and Massachusetts.(2)

Kings Highway Marker, ca 2010

Kings Highway Marker, ca 2010

A post rider could ride 30 miles on a clear summer day; but in stormy winter or foggy spring weather, he could ride only a few miles a day. So around 1740, the upper King’s Highway was built further inland as part of a plan to improve postal service, and the coastal King’s Highway was not used as often. In 1753, the British Government named Benjamin Franklin as one of two deputies in charge of the colonial mail system. To overcome colonists’ suspicions that they were being overcharged on postage assessed by the mile, Franklin rode the post roads in his carriage with a homemade odometer attached to a carriage wheel to calculate distance traveled.(3) At each mile, a stake was driven into the ground and a crew following behind set the stone markers. The King’s Highway was renamed the Post Road in 1760.(4)

County Road and Saco Street, North Scarborough, 1907

County Road and Saco Street, North Scarborough, 1907

In the late 1700s, the first County Road was built inland from the coast. The route started in Portland, crossed the Fore River at Stroudwater, passed through Thornton Heights (Skunk Hill), went to what we call the Pleasant Hill Road to Chamberlain Road, along Chamberlain to the Black Point Road, thence across the causeway over the Nonesuch River. From there County Road went to the meadow onto Eastern Road, part of the Eastern Trail today, then meandered up over Scottow’s Hill and down the other side. The road followed the perimeter of the marsh and climbed Cornshop Hill to enter Dunstan. It would take two days to simply walk from Scarborough to Portland while going around marshland and using hills and dry land.(5)

Concord Coach, Scarborough, ca. 1900

Concord Coach, Scarborough, ca. 1900

In 1802, the General Court of Massachusetts passed an act for establishing a turnpike corporation within the town of Scarborough.(6) The Scarborough Turnpike Corporation, headed by Dr. Southgate and brothers built the Cumberland Turnpike. The turnpike, the first in New England, ran straight across the marsh from Oak Hill to Dunstan, the current path of Route 1, and was funded by tolls of eight cents for a horse and twenty-five cents for a stagecoach. Objecting to the toll, stagecoach operator Josiah Paine avoided the marsh by creating at his own expense a direct route from Dunstan to Stroudwater. This is the Payne Road of today. The Cumberland Turnpike remained a toll road until 1855.

Black Point Road, Scarborough, ca. 1900

Black Point Road, Scarborough, ca. 1900

As settlements moved away from the coast, east-west roads were developed to intersect roads extending inland from the Boston Post Road. Nehemiah Libby was largely responsible for Holmes Road becoming a town road, despite opposition from some townspeople. These people began calling Holmes Road the Vinegar Road, a name that originated from the kegs of vinegar that Libby transported over the road from his farm to market.(7) The “new” County Road, Route 22, made a direct connection to Gorham, Portland and the rest of Scarborough. These new roads facilitated the development of inland areas and made trade and travel by land easier.

In 1941 the Maine State Legislature passed an act to create an independent state agency, the Maine Turnpike Authority, for the purpose of building a super highway.(8) The first section of highway opened in 1947 between Kittery and Portland. Scarborough has benefited from having two interchanges that allow easy on/off access for residents and tourists alike. Visitors can easily access beaches, shopping, Beech Ridge Speedway and Scarborough Downs from the highway; and residents have access to a high-speed road for commuting, travel, and out-of-town shopping. In the early 2000s, the original section of the highway was widened from four to six lanes. The highway has been designated a national civil engineering landmark.

Source Notes
1. William S. Southgate, The History of Scarborough from 1633 to 1783 (Portland, ME: Brown Thurston, 1853).
2. Scarborough Historical Society Collection: The King’s Highway.
3. Donald Barr Chidsey, “The Old Boston Post Roads,” National Geographic (May 1962).
4. See note 2 above.
5. August F. Moulton, Grandfather Tales of Scarborough (Portland, ME: Katahdin Publishing Co., 1925).
6. Acts and Resolves Passed by the General Court of Massachusetts. “An Act for Establishing a Turnpike Corporation Within the Town of Scarborough,” Chapter 34, 1802.
7. Susan Dudley Gold, ed., Scarborough at 350: Linking the Past to the Present (Scarborough, ME: Friends of the Scarborough 350th, 2007), 104-105.
8. https://www.maineturnpike.com/about/history_of_the_mta.php

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Scarborough Marsh: “Land of Much Grass” – Part 3

Part 3 of 3

Text by Bruce Thurlow

Images from Scarborough Historical Society, Bruce Thurlow, Friends of the Scarborough Marsh, Maine Audubon and Scarborough Marsh Audubon Center.

Site of Scarborough Marsh Audubon Center

Site of Scarborough Marsh Audubon Center

Realizing that this significant coastal wildlife habitat was severely threatened, in 1957 the Maine Department of Inland Fisheries and Wildlife (MDIFW) began a twenty-year process of acquiring the marsh. The Scarborough Marsh is now owned and managed by the MDIFW. In 1972 Maine Audubon initiated a partnership with the MDIFW to create a nature center at the edge of the marsh. The Audubon Center offers a variety of guided and self-guided walks and canoe tours as well as canoe rentals, a nature trail and exhibits. There are also an aquarium, mounted birds and animals, and interactive exhibits. Today the Scarborough Marsh is a classroom for school children, a delight for birders, a laboratory for biologists and naturalists, and a prime territory for fishermen and hunters.

Dunstan River

Dunstan River

In 2000, a group of volunteers and representatives from town, state and federal commissions and agencies organized as the Friends of Scarborough Marsh (FOSM). This group is dedicated to the conservation, protection, restoration and enhancement of the Scarborough Marsh watershed. These concerned individuals and groups continue to be successful stewards in assuring that the Scarborough Marsh will remain a highly productive ecosystem and wildlife habitat.

Sources

  • Acts and Resolves of the Legislature of Maine.
  • ——“An Act to Establish a Corporation for the Purpose of Diking a Certain Tract of Marsh in the Towns of Cape Elizabeth and Scarborough.” Chapter 174, 1821
  •  —— “An Act to Incorporate the Cumberland Dyke Company.” Chapter 451, 1870
  • —— “An Act to Incorporate the Little River Dyking Company.” Chapter 533, 1871
  • —— “An Act to Incorporate the Southgate Dyking Company.” Chapter 223, 1876
  • Boothby Papers. A collection of diking corporation meeting minutes and notes recorded by George Boothby. (1870s). Scarborough Historical Society archives
  • Cumberland County Registry of Deeds. Book 100, page 571.
  • Domingue, Robert. The Village of Cockell: An Illustrated History of Pine Point, Maine. Wilmington, MA: Hampshire Press, 1988.
  • Fogg, John D. “Recollections of a Salt Marsh Farmer.” Seabrook, New Hampshire: Historical Society of Seabrook, New Hampshire, 1983.
  • Fogg, John D., and Anne Bridges. “Salt Marsh Dykes as a Factor in Eastern Maine Agriculture.”Maine Historical Society Quarterly, Vol. 21. No. 4. Spring, 1982
  • Hodgdon, Frank. “Scarborough the Way It Was.” The Current, 18 November 2004
  • Karr, Paul, and Jeff Clark. “Oasis of Wilderness.” Down East, September 1995
  • Lamson-Scribner, F. “Grasses of a Salt Marsh.” Yearbook of the Department of Agriculture. Washington: Government Printing Office, 1895.
  • Moulton, Augustus. Grandfather Tales of Scarborough. Katahdin Publishing Co., 1925
  • Robinson, Brian. “An Inter-tidal Survey of the Scarborough Marsh.” (Copy of article provided by B. Robinson.)
  • Sebold, Kimberly. “Transforming the Garden of the Sea; The Individual Place in the Manipulation of the Scarborough Marsh.”
  • Snow, John. Secrets of a Salt Marsh. Portland, Maine: Guy Gannet Publishing Co., 1980
  • Van Cott, Leslie. “A Brief Scarborough Nature Center History.” Audubon Nature Center Collection, 5 May 1983.
  • Wilson, Emily. “Marsh People.” Salt Magazine, No. 45

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Scarborough Marsh: “Land of Much Grass” – Part 2

Part 2 of 3

Text by Bruce Thurlow

Images from Scarborough Historical Society, Bruce Thurlow, Friends of the Scarborough Marsh, Maine Audubon  and Scarborough Marsh Audubon Center.

Moses Banks Map of Scarborough, ca. 1784
Digital Maine

The Scarborough Marsh has long been important to the people living near it. Here the Sokokis Indians found an abundance of fish, shellfish, waterfowl and other natural resources as they hunted, trapped, clammed and fished in the marsh. When European settlers arrived in the early 1600s they, too, quickly learned the value of the marsh. It was a source of food for themselves as well as their domestic animals. They harvested salt hay as fodder for cattle and sheep and used the marsh for summer pasture. Many settlers were often assigned a marsh lot (or lots) for grazing their animals, later deeding these lots to their heirs. A 1784 survey of the marsh by Moses Banks noted owners of marsh lots at that time.

Bog Shoe

Bog Shoe

Salt hay continued to be important to the people of Scarborough well into the 1800s, as it became a source of income for owners of marsh property. Abundant salt hay, which required no cultivation, was used to feed cattle. Once cut, horses and oxen, shod in bog shoes, hauled the harvested hay to staddles. To increase acreage yields, large-scale diking was undertaken. Ditches were dug to drain wet, mosquito-breeding areas; pannes were filled; and tide gates (sluiceways) were constructed to prevent tides from flooding areas of the marsh. Five different diking companies were formed during this period.

Corporate Minutes

Corporate Minutes of Boothby Corp.

Dr. Robert Southgate built the first dike between 1803 and 1804, soon followed by a corporation formed to dike the marsh area of the Spurwink River. After the Civil War Seth Scamman and partners formed the Cumberland Diking Company, the Little River Diking Company and the Southgate Diking Company. Moses Banks’ 1784 survey map became the basis for all marsh lot purchases, work and disputes involving these companies. (Corporation meeting notes and minutes were kept by George Boothby. These and other company papers, known as the “Boothby Papers”, are archived at the Scarborough Historical Society.)

Haying declined in the 1900s and some looked upon the marsh as a wasteland, an inexpensive place to fill and build. Reportedly the marsh was even proposed as a possible site for the town dump. The delicate ecosystem of the marsh had already been threatened by activities of the diking companies during the 1800s. Rail lines, roads and a pipeline across the marsh also negatively impacted the area, disturbing the hydrology, soils and natural vegetation and creating opportunities for establishment of invasive plant species.

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Scarborough Marsh: “Land of Much Grass” – Part 1

Part 1 of 3

Text by Bruce Thurlow

Images from Scarborough Historical Society, Bruce Thurlow, Friends of the Scarborough Marsh, Maine Audubon  and Scarborough Marsh Audubon Center.

Arial View of Marsh

Arial View of Marsh

To the Sokokis Indians, the area we call the Scarborough Marsh was known as Owascoag, the “land of much grass.” It is the largest contiguous salt marsh system in Maine, covering more than 3,000 acres and accounting for 15 percent of Maine’s total tidal marsh area. The marsh includes five tidal rivers, several smaller streams, some coastal freshwater marsh, tidal flats and less than 200 acres of upland habitat.

Salt marshes began to form many thousands of years ago when glaciers from the last ice age receded as the climate warmed. Silt from rivers and streams washed into low-lying, protected tidal estuaries and began to build up. Various organisms, plant life, and marine animals were attracted to the resulting mudflats and seed from salt-tolerant grasses took root and began to spread. Thus began the growth and development of the marsh we know today.

The Scarborough Marsh is a very valuable, rich ecosystem. It is home to a variety of birds, fish, shellfish and mammals that either live their entire lives or live parts of their life cycles in the marsh; it is a food production and distribution system for marsh inhabitants; it is a nursery for various fish and shellfish; it is a resting place for migrating birds; and it acts as a filter or sponge for both the salt and freshwater meeting within it.

Fish Weirs

Fish Weirs

Life in a salt marsh depends on upon the grass. Through photosynthesis, the Spartina grasses(known variously as cordgrass, salt hay, marsh grass, or salt meadow grass) convert the energy of the sun into usable food for the many creatures in the marsh. As the grasses decay, the rotted material forms a nutrient-rich “soup” that feeds the plankton, clams, mussels, worms and some fish. These creatures, in turn, feed larger animals such as raccoons, striped bass, and ospreys. Waste from animals living and dying enters the marsh to be recycled as fertilizer for bacteria and plants. In its twice-daily movement, the tide sweeps nutrient-rich water into the ocean and feeds offshore fish and their young. Additionally, the grass plants provide temperature and humidity control among their stems and act as a buffer against wind and currents.

Great Egret

Great Egret

In his book Secrets of a Salt Marsh, author John O. Snow beautifully describes life in a salt marsh, “a world of many different creatures as green crabs scurry among the shaded plant stalks, marsh wrens weave the grass blades into swaying nests, insects chew the leaves for their sugar before becoming food for hungry birds, and microscopic plants and animals drift with tide and feed siphon eaters, such as clams, and worms tunnel through the root-laced mud.”

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